In 2022 I wrote to myself that I had no expectations of Taormina. Since then I’ve been there 3 times, always out of season, and I’m always glad to go back. For those epic views of Etna and the climb up to the very top of the town. That’s exactly what Taormina is about!
🎒 A backpack of information for those short on time
- Main attraction: the Teatro Greco – a Greek theatre from the 3rd century BC with views of Etna and the sea
- Theatre entry: around 10 €, open 9:00-19:00
- Most photogenic spot by the sea: Isola Bella – take the cable car down or walk the steps
- Come early in the morning or after 17:00 – at midday Taormina is packed
- From Catania: 50 min by car or 55 min on the Trenitalia train (Taormina-Giardini)
- Accommodation outside the centre (Letojanni, Giardini Naxos) is 30-50 % cheaper
But let me not get ahead of myself: it’s fair to say Taormina is crowded. In July and August the Corso Umberto and the approach to the theatre are crammed with tourists from all over the world. The locals know it. The tourists know it. And still millions of people come every year. Taormina really is beautiful. Guy de Maupassant said everything here was created to please the eye. And the view from the Greek theatre over Etna and the Ionian Sea is one I’ve carried with me for 4 years now.
You can enjoy Taormina – you “just” have to come at the right time. And I’ll show you when that is.
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How to get to Taormina
By car – Taormina sits on a rocky spur 200 metres above the sea. The road into the centre is steep and packed in season. The best strategy is to park for free by the station on Via Nazionale and continue on foot into the centre (you’ll find the car park on our map, of course). Other paid options are the Lumbi car park (northern entrance) or Porta Catania, and then walk or take the cable car.
By train – the Taormina-Giardini station is down by the sea. A bus runs from the station to the centre (10 min, around 2 €) or a taxi (~10 €). Trains from Catania run regularly, the journey takes 55 minutes and costs roughly 4 €.
Cable car (Funivia) – from the port of Mazzarò a cable car runs straight to the centre of Taormina. It operates year-round and the ride takes about 5 minutes. Return costs around 10 €.
Where to stay in Taormina
Right in Taormina, because the atmosphere here is the best. The theatre and the Corso are both walkable. But prices are highest and parking is complicated. Suited to a romantic couple’s stay without a car.
Letojanni is a quiet alternative 10 minutes away by bus. Accommodation by the beach, significantly lower prices, easy parking.
Giardini Naxos – a seaside resort below Taormina. Beach at your door, views, good infrastructure. Popular for longer stays. Unfortunately pricier, though.
What to see in Taormina
Teatro Greco (Teatro Antico)
The Teatro Greco is the reason to come to Taormina. Originally a Greek theatre from the 3rd century BC, rebuilt by the Romans – and the view from its seating is one of the most beautiful in the world.
The seating funnels down the slope. Below you, the roofs of Taormina, baroque palaces and narrow lanes. Then the blue Ionian Sea. And in the background – Etna, always there, sometimes smoking.
The theatre is 109 metres across and could hold up to 5,000 spectators. Today it hosts festivals every summer – concerts, theatre performances and the Taormina Film Fest, one of the oldest film festivals in Europe.
Entry: around 10 €, open 9:00-19:00. Come in the morning or early evening – midday is full of coach parties.
Corso Umberto I – the town’s main artery
Taormina has one main street and that’s enough. Corso Umberto I runs from the Porta Messina gate in the north to the Porta Catania gate in the south – and the whole way it’s lined with baroque palaces, boutiques, gelato cafés and viewpoints above the sea.
Stop at Palazzo Corvaja – the finest and best-preserved Norman palace in town, from the 11th century. A little further on lies the medieval Duomo (cathedral) with its battlements.
On Piazza IX Aprile, halfway along the Corso, have a coffee or an ice cream and look out at the sea. It’s a viewing terrace above the Ionian gulf and in evening light the scene is perfect.
Piazza IX Aprile – the viewing terrace
Taormina’s largest square is a natural stop on any walk. Churches on either side, the Ionian Sea in front of you and Etna in the distance. In the evening locals and tourists gather here and the atmosphere is exceptionally friendly.
Villa Comunale – Lady Trevelyan’s park
Villa Comunale is an English garden from the late 19th century, created by the British aristocrat Florence Trevelyan. Terraces, exotic plants, small pavilions inspired by Japanese and Chinese architecture – and views over the sea and Etna.
It’s a slightly unexpected and enormously calm place in the middle of a crowded Taormina. Entry is free.
Castelmola – the village above Taormina
Castelmola rises 530 metres above Taormina – above a Taormina that’s already on a hill. This small medieval village with the remains of a castle offers a panorama of the whole eastern coast of Sicily from Messina to Etna, with Isola Bella below you.
By car or on foot (45 minutes of steep climbing). It’s worth it – the view is absolute and there are far fewer tourists than in Taormina. Just be careful with the walk in summer; it will hurt.
If you’re driving, there’s fairly cheap parking here. What I’d recommend then is setting off early (say at 7), walking through the centre and then having breakfast at this bar, Antico Caffè San Giorgio, where you look out over Taormina and the whole surrounding area. Oh, and they have cannoli too!
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Beaches near Taormina
Taormina doesn’t have its own beach – it sits 200 metres above the sea. To swim you have to get down. There are a few spots you can visit even so.
Isola Bella
Isola Bella is a small islet joined to the mainland by a narrow pebble strip and surrounded by crystal-clear water. It’s the most photographed spot on the whole Sicilian coast.
Access by the Funivia Mazzarò cable car (from the centre of Taormina, ~4 € return) or on foot down the steps (20 minutes of steep descent, and a slog back up). Swimming from the pebble beach right by the islet.
Giardini Naxos – sand and quiet
Giardini Naxos lies directly below Taormina. A long sandy beach, shallow sea, a lively centre with restaurants. Less dramatic than Isola Bella but significantly more comfortable for families with children. Accommodation is 20-40 % cheaper than in Taormina.
Letojanni – the quiet alternative
Letojanni is the neighbouring seaside town a short hop from Taormina. A long pebble beach, views of Etna, a more authentic atmosphere. Most of the beach is freely accessible (spiaggia libera). Buses to the centre of Taormina run every 15-20 minutes.
Where to eat in Taormina
Taormina is the most-visited town in Sicily and prices reflect it. On Corso Umberto and in the restaurants around it, expect prices 30-50 % higher than in other Sicilian towns.
How to avoid the traps: restaurants right on the main street are the most expensive. Wander into the side lanes – 50 metres off the Corso and prices drop significantly. Watch out for the cover charge (coperto) and the service charge – tourist restaurants can add 3-5 € per person.
Practical tips
When to arrive: in the morning before 9:30 or in the afternoon after 17:00 – the tour groups arrive at midday and leave in the afternoon. In the evening Taormina has a different, calmer magic.
Out of season: October and April are ideal – bearable temperatures, the theatre open, far fewer people. Spring is especially lovely.
Sunset: from Piazza IX Aprile or Villa Comunale, sunset with a view of Etna and the sea is an absolute experience.
