When we first looked at it from Taormina in 2022, my colleague summed it up best: “Do you realise it’s going constantly?” Yes. Constantly. And that’s exactly why you want to go up. Read on for a compelling guide to what climbing Etna actually looks like.
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The history of Etna and its eruptions
Etna isn’t just a mountain with a crater. It’s one of the most active volcanoes in the world and the oldest documented active volcano in Europe – records of eruptions go back more than 2,700 years. The Greeks believed the one-eyed giant Cyclops lived beneath it. The Romans thought Etna was the forge of the god Vulcan. The truth is more prosaic, but no less fascinating.
Etna stands where the African tectonic plate slides beneath the Eurasian one. This permanent geological conflict keeps it active to this day. Over the last hundred years it has had dozens of significant eruptions – in 1928 a lava flow swallowed the entire town of Mascali, in 2002 an eruption closed Catania airport for several days. In 2021 it threw lava fountains over a kilometre into the air, and finally in June 2025 it blew again.
And yet people live below Etna. The soil enriched by volcanic ash is enormously fertile – excellent pistachios, citrus and Etna DOC vines are grown here. Sicilians respect the volcano but also have a deep relationship with it. For them Etna is part of everyday life, not a threat.
The volcano’s height changes after every major eruption. It currently reaches 3,403 m, but that number only holds temporarily. Wild, isn’t it?
Where the climb up Etna starts
Etna has two main starting points – each on a different side of the volcano and each with a different character. I’ll mainly write about the southern one, because that’s the one we tried ourselves, so I’ll stand behind the information.
South side: base camp Rifugio Sapienza at 1,900 m. This is the main tourist entry point – there’s a large car park, a restaurant, kitschy souvenir stalls and the cable car station. Organised tours and individual walkers both set off from here.
North side: the ski resort Piano Provenzana at 1,800 m. Fewer tourists, different landscape, different routes. No cable car.
Most travellers choose the southern side – it’s more accessible and has more services. The northern side is more worthwhile for the adventurous.
How long the climb up Etna takes
Always count on a full day – the transfer from your accommodation, the ascent, the descent and a possible stop at base camp. It depends on the option you choose.
Cable car + 4×4 off-road bus
The fastest and most comfortable combination. The cable car from Rifugio Sapienza takes you to 2,500 m in about 15 minutes. From there you board a 4×4 that drives you to 2,900 m. From that point you walk with a guide to the craters up to around 3,350 m – though you won’t reach the summit itself, because the fumes are too dangerous and could injure or even kill you.
Total trip time including walking to the craters and back: approximately 3-4 hours from base camp.
Cable car + walking above 2,500 m
The cable car takes you to 2,500 m and from there you continue on foot to a maximum altitude of around 2,900 m. The route to the craters and back to the cable car station takes roughly 2-3 hours extra. Physically harder than the jeep option.
Total with the cable car: 4-5 hours from base camp.
On foot from Rifugio Sapienza
The cheapest and most authentic option. You skip the cable car and set off on the red route – the best navigation is the Mapy.com app, which has the routes marked. You either walk directly alongside the cable car or take the zigzag.
But careful! The surface is fairly loose, a kind of lava sand your feet sink into. Not only were our shoes covered in dust, it genuinely made the climb harder (that applies to the route beside the cable car). The zigzag path has a surface compacted by the jeeps.
The climb to the Barbagallo craters (2,900 m) and back: roughly 4-6 hours depending on your pace and how many stops you make. And believe me, there’ll be a few 😀
Why you can’t walk all the way to that 3,350 m mark – only licensed guides have access, because of the danger the fumes pose.
The difference between the north and south routes up Etna
The southern route – Rifugio Sapienza
The main tourist route. It has the cable car, organised tours and base camp facilities, and it’s reachable from Catania without a car thanks to the AST bus. The downside is the higher concentration of tourists in season and a line of guides by the cable car offering tours at inflated prices.
From the southern side you get the best view of Valle del Bove – an enormous crater created by the volcano’s collapse, whose steep walls drop more than 1,000 m.
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The northern route – Piano Provenzana
A quieter, less-visited alternative. No cable car, but with its own network of hiking trails. The landscape in the north is different – more forest and greenery at lower altitudes, then sharp transitions into lava fields.
The northern side is the starting point for the more demanding summit trek to 3,329 m led by certified guides. For walkers looking for a less touristy experience who have their own car, because the drive there is fairly long.
When climbing Etna is possible
Spring (April-June)
The ideal period. Pleasant temperatures, fewer tourists than in summer, beautiful visibility. On the lower slopes poppy-like flowers bloom straight out of the black lava – a contrast that gets you. The snow on the summits is slowly retreating, but from April the climb is usually possible without special equipment. I’d go for May rather than earlier, though – on our last visit at the end of March this year there was still plenty of snow.
Summer (July-August)
The busiest season. Down in Catania it can be over 36 °C, up at 2,900 m around 10 °C. Dress for two climates. Car parks tend to be full early in the morning, so I’d definitely aim to arrive before 9:00.
Autumn (September-October)
The second-best window after spring. Tourist numbers drop dramatically, temperatures are pleasant and visibility excellent.
Winter (November-March)
Etna in winter is unrecognisable – snow starts falling while conditions down below can still be sunny. Winter walks depend on the weather and snow conditions. Some routes may be closed. I’d recommend keeping an eye on the official website.
Entry fees and the cable car price on Etna
Access to the Etna area as such is free – there’s no entrance gate. At Rifugio Sapienza you only pay for parking.
| Option | Price |
| Parking at Rifugio Sapienza | 2 €/hour or 5 € for half a day, free from 19:00 |
| Cable car return (Funivia dell’Etna) | ~65 € |
| 4×4 vehicle from the cable car station upwards | ~30 € extra |
| Organised tour from Catania (with transfer) | from 35 € |
| Summit trek with a guide (3,329 m) | 80-120 € |
Recommended kit for climbing Etna
The biggest mistake I see is that I didn’t dress warmly enough. I’ve been on Etna twice. The first time in early spring, and up top it was around 0 °C, with wind that made it feel more like minus 5. The second time was in June, and armed with experience I took a windproof jacket and a hoodie to protect my head. Oh, and of course trainers with a firm sole, which I could then comfortably walk around town in afterwards.
Clothing:
- 3 layers: a light hoodie, a fleece or warm layer, a windbreaker or jacket
- A warm hat and gloves
- Sturdy walking shoes – on lava sand, trainers are absolutely unsuitable
Kit:
- At least 1 litre of water per person
- A snack – there are options up top, but everything carries a mountain surcharge
- Sunglasses and sun cream (UV radiation at altitude is intense)
- The Mapy.com app downloaded offline
Safety restrictions and where to follow them
Etna is permanently monitored. When activity increases, sections of the routes close – sometimes for hours, sometimes longer. It makes no difference whether you’ve paid for a tour in advance.
You can follow the current status on the official Parco dell’Etna website
Climbing Etna on your own
If you’re worried about the climb, let me reassure you. Don’t be – we managed it with minimal kit, so you will too. Even without a guide and without the cable car you’ll experience climbing an active volcano and it’ll be worth it. You’ll actually see fumes here and there and the experience will still be grand.
From base camp at Rifugio Sapienza you set off on the red route – navigation via Mapy.com, where the routes are clearly marked. You bypass the cable car and walk directly beneath or beside it.
Crateri Barbagallo – the goal of the free climb
You gradually pass Piccolo Rifugio at 2,500 m (there are refreshments here too), continue to the Piano del Lago / Escrivá crater at 2,672 m and from there to the Crateri Barbagallo at 2,900 m.
That’s where our first-hand knowledge ends. The path does carry on, but we turned back. Guides warn of fines for going beyond 2,900 m, partly because of that required certification. Judge for yourself whether the risk is worth it. It’ll be a great experience either way. As Vito Scaletta says in the game Mafia: “He who wants too much from life may end up with nothing at all”
On your way back to base camp, don’t skip two more craters right by the car park: Silvestri Superiori and Monti Calcarazzi. Accessible literally even to those who turned up in flip-flops. A short walk, no hiking, excellent view.
Total cost of the free climb: at most ~20 € (transport + parking).
Organised trips to Etna
If you want to go higher and don’t want to bend the “rules”, organised tours are well put together.
A half-day guided tour to 3,000 m – the most popular option. Transfer from Catania, cable car or jeep included, and a guide who explains the geology and the history of the eruptions. From 35-50 € per person.
A combined tour with wine tasting – the climb in the morning, a visit to an Etna winery in the afternoon. A great option for anyone who doesn’t want to spend the whole day walking.
Accommodation on and around Etna
Catania is the best base for a trip to Etna – the largest choice of accommodation in every price bracket, easy access to the volcano and to the rest of eastern Sicily.
Nicolosi – a small village 30 minutes from the Rifugio Sapienza base camp. Ideal for early starts or multi-day hiking on the volcano, though I’ve never heard of anyone hiking on Etna beyond the craters mentioned.
Winter activities on Etna
Etna in winter isn’t a dead destination – it’s a different destination. Skiing and snowboarding – on the northern side the Piano Provenzana ski resort operates. The pistes are modest in scale, but the view of the Mediterranean from black lava slopes covered in snow is absolutely unique. You simply won’t find anything like it in Europe. The weather here is a bit tricky, though, because cold wind combined with moisture off the sea often brings cloud that settles in.
