There are places that leave you in peace. The Aeolian Islands aren’t among them. Just as the Egadi Islands [read more in our guide to the Egadi Islands] left a brutal impression on us, so did the Aeolians.
This is where we got up at 3:55 in the morning to climb Vulcano before the first rays of sun. The result was worth it – even worth that painful alarm. The reward of a cornetto in the port and a nap until midday made up for it!
The Aeolian Islands (in Italian Isole Eolie) are an archipelago of seven islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea north of Sicily. Every island is different. Every one is worth it.
🎒 A backpack of information for those short on time
- Main port: Milazzo – parking 10 €/day, ferries from here to all the islands
- Vulcano: climbing the crater is free, we recommend the morning, before 9:00
- Lipari: rent a scooter for 30 €/day (a standard car licence is enough) – the best way to explore
- Best season: April-June and September-October
- Stromboli: the summit is guide-only, eruptions every 15-20 minutes
- In winter the islands are practically empty – locals move to the mainland
About the archipelago
Seven islands, seven characters. Lipari is the largest and the starting point for most visitors. Vulcano lies closest to the mainland and has the one thing the others don’t: an active crater you can climb. Stromboli is the most active volcano in the whole Mediterranean and erupts practically non-stop. Salina is green and quiet. Panarea is the smallest and most exclusive – yachts and boutique hotels. Filicudi and Alicudi are the most remote and least touristy – for anyone looking for islands in their original state.
The archipelago has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2000 as an exceptional example of volcanic geology.
When to visit the Aeolian Islands
Spring (April-June)
The ideal time, with temperatures around 20-25 °C, no crowds and everything already open. The vegetation on the islands is green and in flower. The sea is starting to warm up (though very slowly), and conditions for climbing the volcanoes are ideal because it isn’t too hot.
Summer (July-August)
Full season. Ferries and beaches are bursting at the seams. From experience we know accommodation tends to be pricier. Even so the atmosphere is exceptional, because the islands are genuinely buzzing in summer. If you want quiet, go out of season. If you want atmosphere, go in summer.
Autumn (September-October)
The second-best window. The sea is at its warmest of the year (25-26 °C) and there are far fewer tourists. September is still lively – our guesthouse owner on Vulcano told us as much: that it’s a beautiful period now and the winter is mild. Everyone withdraws from the smaller islands to the main one. From November the winds also pick up and ferries are occasionally cancelled.
Winter (November-March)
The majority of residents winter on the mainland (told you). Most accommodation is closed and ferries run less often. Ideal for lovers of absolute silence, winter and adventure.
How to get to the Aeolian Islands
From Sicily you can only reach the islands by boat. The main departure port is Milazzo in the northeast of Sicily.
From Milazzo – the main option
Milazzo lies roughly 40 km from Messina and is the most convenient starting point. Both ferries and Liberty Lines hydrofoils run regularly all year round.
Hydrofoil (aliscafo) – fast, foot passengers only:
- Milazzo → Vulcano: ~45 min, approx. 15-20 €
- Milazzo → Lipari: ~60 min, approx. 17-22 €
- Milazzo → Stromboli: ~2.5-3 hours, approx. 25-35 €
- Milazzo → Salina: ~90 min, approx. 18-24 €
Ferry (traghetto) – slower, but cheaper and it takes bikes:
- Milazzo → Lipari: ~2 hours, approx. 12-16 €
We left the car right at the port and paid 10 € a day (you’ll find the car park on our map) and carried on to the island of Vulcano. This is where we wanted to climb the dormant but smouldering volcano – and we did, at sunrise!
You can also take a cruise from Milazzo or Lipari if you don’t have much time and want to see all the Aeolian Islands. I’d definitely recommend booking one of the trips through GYG (we considered it too, to see the evening spectacle of flowing lava on Stromboli, but in the end it didn’t work out because we went up Vulcano).
From Messina or Naples
There are seasonal services from Messina and Naples.
Getting around the islands
It’s fairly simple. On Lipari you rent a scooter and can cover the whole island in a day. The island is rugged, the roads run over hills and on foot you wouldn’t get far. The rental places are right by the port – all you need for a scooter is a standard car licence (B).
The price is around 30 € a day – and believe us, it’s worth those 30 €.
You’ll reach every viewpoint, cove and village on the island at your own pace. The alternative is the guided-tour touts right at the port – but the scooter rentals are a few metres further on and are a clearly better deal.
On Vulcano your own two feet are enough. You can walk up to the crater from the port in 60-90 minutes. The rest of the island is pleasant on a motorbike or scooter.
Stromboli is walkable only – the island is small and the centre easy to navigate. The volcano can only be climbed with a guide. The Ditella (San Bartolo) district on the other side of the island is a quieter alternative to the busier San Vincenzo.
Salina, Panarea, Filicudi, Alicudi: on foot or with locals (we haven’t tested that one). Salina has buses between the villages.
Cruises – if you’re short on time
If you don’t have enough days but want to see more islands, you can take a cruise from Milazzo or from Lipari itself. A day cruise usually combines two or three stops, swimming in crystal-clear water and a view of the Stromboli volcano from the sea.
Book organised trips through GetYourGuide or with the skippers right at the port in Lipari. Prices start at around 40-70 € per person for a full-day trip.
Vulcano
Vulcano is the first island where the ferry from Milazzo stops, and the moment you step onto the jetty you know you’re somewhere different. The characteristic smell of sulphur comes to meet you from the port. Above you the crater smokes. By the harbour people head for the mud baths.
Climbing the Gran Cratere
The main reason to go to Vulcano is the Gran Cratere (391 m). An active crater with volcanic gas and sulphur rising from it. Zdeňa had a fantastic idea (despite not being a fan of early-morning sunrise climbs): “come on, let’s go up”. Then she wavered, and in the end our host at the Holiday Eolia Village convinced us we absolutely had to go. The climb takes roughly 60-90 minutes from the port on a well-marked path.
We got up at 3:55 in the morning and set off in the dark so we’d catch the sunrise right on the crater. A very painful alarm. Looking back, for that view from the crater at first light over the other islands and Etna in the distance, I’d have got up at one in the morning.
Our host at Holiday Eolia Village gave us golden advice: go as early in the morning as you can. The longer you wait, the more tourists and the more heat.
The climb is freely accessible (no entry fee).
The mud baths – Laghetto di Fanghi
The natural mud baths right by the port are one of the most bizarre and most popular attractions in the whole archipelago. Grey sulphurous mud warmed by volcanic springs. Said to cure skin problems. Indisputably very strong-smelling.
The queue is real – chat to the other tourists in it, and expect that the smell of sulphur won’t leave your swimwear entirely even after a wash.
Spiaggia delle Sabbie Nere
We spent our very first night at sunset on this volcanic beach. Me with a beer, Zdeňa with a lemonade. Romance beyond words – not even Saint-Exupéry could have written better lines about it.
Lipari – the heart of the archipelago
Lipari is the largest island and the natural centre of the whole archipelago. We crossed here from Vulcano by ferry in 10 minutes. A livelier, more colourful island with plenty of little cafés.
What to see on Lipari
Castello di Lipari – the Norman castle rising above the port, with an archaeological museum. Finds from every period of the island’s settlement, from the Neolithic to the Middle Ages. The view from the walls over the sea and the surrounding islands is exceptional.
Spiaggia Bianca – Lipari’s most famous beach and one of the Mediterranean’s unique spots. White pumice sand, crystal-clear water, a dramatic contrast of colours. Access on foot down a steep path or by boat.
Obsidian and pumice – in prehistory Lipari was the centre of the obsidian trade across the whole Mediterranean. This black volcanic glass is both a souvenir and the key to understanding why these places played such an important role in ancient history.
Stromboli – the volcano that never sleeps
Stromboli erupts every 15-20 minutes and at night it flashes orange into the dark. The sight of Stromboli from a ferry deck at night is one of the most powerful experiences you can have in Sicily. Do write to us in the comments about it, because we only got it second-hand from our Vulcano host 😀
Climbing Stromboli
The climb to the summit (918 m) is permitted only with a certified guide – the safety restrictions here are stricter than on Etna or Vulcano. Organised climbs are more of a full-day affair. The price is around 30-40 € for the guide. Book in advance.
Climbing Stromboli via GetYourGuide starts at around 700 CZK for the complete trip. That’s a great price, especially if you’re short on time.
The beaches are volcanic – black sand and pebbles. Spiaggia Nera is the best known; Forgia Vecchia on the other side of the island is a quieter alternative.
Salina – the island of calm and Malvasia
Salina is the greenest of all the islands. It has proper agriculture, vineyards and forest vegetation. Fans of Italian cinema know it from the film Il Postino (The Postman).
Monte Fossa delle Felci (962 m) is the highest point in the whole archipelago.
Malvasia delle Lipari – a sweet white wine made exclusively here. Tasting straight from the producers in the villages of Malfa and Lingua is an exceptional experience. If you see the wine on a menu, order it.
Practical information
Payments: cards work without a problem on all the islands. On the smaller ones (Filicudi, Alicudi, parts of Vulcano) carry cash.
Ferries in season: in July and August book return tickets in advance – Friday afternoon departures and Sunday returns tend to sell out.
Wind: the Tramontana and Ponente can blow hard – especially in autumn. Ferries are cancelled in strong wind. Keep a spare day in your itinerary.
You’ll find accommodation most easily through Booking. Turning up and asking around on the spot isn’t really a thing here. 🙂
