Snowboarding is better than therapy? We couldn’t agree more. The feeling when you strap the board on in light Japanese powder is indescribable. Love winter and tired of hearing how unique Japanese snow is, and want to experience it yourself? Read on for advice and tips for one of the best adventures out there. JAPOW can’t be described, it has to be experienced.
Why Japanese snow is considered the best in the world
Japan is geographically positioned so that it receives masses of cold air from Siberia, which pick up moisture as they cross the Sea of Japan. As that damp air rises into Japan’s mountains, heavy snowfall occurs. The country’s famous powder is the result of particular weather and geographical conditions producing snow with a low moisture content. Deep, fluffy powder piles up high in the northern regions of Japan. In our favourite destination, for instance – Hokkaido.
Hokkaido – the Niseko area
It all starts with booking flights; for tips on finding cheap fares, take a look at how to search for flights. There are genuinely plenty of options for where to ski in Hokkaido.
One of the best-known areas is Niseko – a 2.5-hour bus ride from Sapporo airport. The buses work brilliantly, can be booked online (bus booking, shuttle bus info) and take you all the way to snow paradise – Hirafu. The Niseko area has three large resorts (Rusutsu, Kiroro and Hirafu).
Hirafu
Hirafu is by far the largest and the most accessible in terms of accommodation. All three resorts are connected by buses, so wherever you stay you can get across (about 1 hour apart).
Rusutsu
Rusutsu has our great affection, since it’s slightly off to one side and in season there aren’t as many people as in Hirafu. The world-famous snowpark built from natural features is an experience for every freestyler (though it only works when there’s a lot of snow, because the features are quite high). Rusutsu’s disadvantage is that there are only two resorts nearby, both pricey by our standards. We’ve had a very good experience with Rusutsu Resort Hotel & Convention.
Kiroro
Kiroro is about 45 minutes from Hirafu and is always a good choice if the weather in Hirafu is poor; Kiroro faces the other way, so the wind may not be as strong. For less experienced snowboarders Kiroro can be a bit of a slog, because it has long flat run-outs. It’s good to have at least one skier with you who can lend you their poles.
Hirafu is the largest resort in Hokkaido; you can buy a pass for all sections or choose just one. Every resort has an endless amount of freeride terrain. Our absolute favourite is the smaller resort of Moiwa. Moiwa won our hearts with its charm and pleasant surroundings, with people who are constantly in a good mood. It’s a small resort, but you’ll see local riders here on locally made Gentemstick snowboards, which we’d recommend renting and trying for at least a day. The combination of snowboard and surf gives riding a whole different dimension. If you’re equipped for ski touring, you’ll get some of the best freeride here. Hokkaido has a great ski touring app where you can pick routes by difficulty.
Accommodation in Hokkaido, Japan
If you like staying in the middle of the action we’d recommend Grandpapa – cheaper accommodation right in the centre of Hirafu. Hirafu is a village full of excellent street food and nightlife options. The owner Kohei is an excellent skier who sends out a minibus every morning and takes you to the main gondola (5 min by car, 20 min on foot). The accommodation is older but clean. Plenty of young people from all over the world stay here; in the evening they usually meet in the common room by the fire, open a beer and swap riding stories.
If you can rent a car – our recommendation for cheap accommodation is NALU. One of the cheapest places around Niseko and a short hop from our favourite resort, Moiwa. Nalu is a family guesthouse belonging to a Japanese family. The owner is a great snowboarder and surfer and, even though his English isn’t perfect, he’s a wonderful guide. He’ll always recommend the best option for where to go in which weather, and gives valuable advice on ski touring. The accommodation is clean and quiet. Not recommended if you don’t have a car.
MyEcoLodge is another cheaper option we don’t have direct experience of. We do know it’s affordable. It has a shuttle bus that takes you to the resort every morning and it’s still within reach of central Hirafu if you want to head out for a beer in the evening.
Coffee & bars
This one’s compulsory – Bar Barunba. A local bar where people gather for après-ski. The owner Hitoshi mixes drinks called Bruce Li (Lee), Jet Li and Bruce Willis. Nobody actually knows what he mixes them from, but they’re top! Careful with the Bruce Willis – have two and even a hardened drinker ends up under the table. If you aren’t into cocktails, have a draught Sapporo or pick one of the Japanese whiskies. The local instructors usually gather here and guarantee a party until the small hours. Sadly it only opens at 7 in the evening, so if you want a beer straight after skiing you’ll have to pick something else.
Draught Sapporo is available at the ski and snowboard rental Rhythm. We’d recommend dropping in for one straight after skiing. You’ll be entertained: a million people running around the shop trying to rent the best kit for the next day. Better than television, if you enjoy watching other people struggle 🙂
Where to eat
In Japan it isn’t easy to eat when you’re actually hungry. Restaurants are small and usually require booking ahead. Where booking isn’t possible, there’s a sheet on the door where you add yourself to the queue and wait outside for your turn (sometimes for quite a while). So our best recommendation is street food. Vans selling various snacks right on the street.
If you’re still eagerly waiting for a top ramen recommendation, you’re in luck. Kutchan is 15 minutes from Hirafu.
Not a fan of Japanese food? Head to Patty Daddy, again in the town of Kutchan about 15 minutes by car. Japanese Curry – always a big queue, but if you do get inside it’s genuinely worth it.
If you’re staying in Hirafu, one of the celebrated cafés is Green Farm; their coffee and breakfasts are excellent. The door doesn’t stop swinging from 7 in the morning, with all the Australian visitors piling into one place at the same time.
If you don’t need breakfast but just want a good coffee before riding, we’d recommend Mountain Kiosk with its beautiful view of Mount Yotei.
Our top favourites are Pow Bar and White Birch Cafe. Both are on the road from Hirafu to Rusutsu and a short way from the NALU guesthouse.
Onsen are part of Japanese culture. Hot springs that recharge you after a full day of riding. Almost every hotel onsen is accessible to the public for a small fee. Our recommendation is the Goshiki and Yukichichibu onsens. Both are exceptional for their location, gorgeous views and lack of people. Simply a pure oasis of calm.
So, are you going? Or would you rather read more about other adventures and dozens of stories from various destinations?
